Stari Grad Restaurants: A Guide to Skadarlija's Taverns
When evening falls and the cobblestones of Skadarska Street start echoing with tamburitza music, it's easy to see why a search for restaurants in the old town so often leads straight to Skadarlija. Whether you're heading out tonight, planning a business lunch or a celebration – or simply wondering what to eat in Skadarlija – this guide will help you find your way: what sets the taverns in this part of town apart, what to look out for before booking a table, and where to find one long-standing place that's always worth coming back to.
Why Stari Grad Is the Heart of Belgrade's Dining Scene
Stari Grad is one of Belgrade's oldest municipalities, bringing together three distinctive areas: Skadarlija, the bohemian street of taverns and artists; Dorćol, where restaurants follow old craftsmen's streets alongside a growing number of places to go out; and Kalemegdan, where restaurants offer guests a view of the Sava flowing into the Danube. It's precisely this density of options that means when someone asks where to eat in Belgrade's old town or looks for a tavern in Stari Grad, the answer almost always starts with the same name – Skadarlija.
For decades, Skadarlija was a gathering place for painters, writers and actors, and that bohemian spirit can still be felt in the taverns along its cobblestones today. Restaurants in Skadarlija preserve that atmosphere – old façades, gardens beneath lanterns, music drifting in from every direction – making this part of town a natural choice for anyone looking for a traditional restaurant in Belgrade's old town, not just another place to eat.
What Sets Restaurants and Taverns in Skadarlija Apart
Before choosing where to have dinner, it's useful to know what sets taverns in this part of town apart from restaurants in the rest of Belgrade.
Atmosphere and Live Music (Tamburitza Players)
Live music may be Skadarlija's most recognizable feature — so much so that a "restaurant with live music in Skadarlija" almost sounds redundant. Tamburitza bands have been part of this area's tavern heritage for decades, and an evening without multi-part singing can hardly be called a proper Skadarlija night out. As is usual in Skadarlija, the tamburitza players aren't an add-on to the evening but its rhythm – with a quick check of the program's hours, that tradition is still alive and well in this part of town.
Terraces and Gardens
In summer and the warmer months, a restaurant with a terrace in the old town is often the top criterion when choosing where to go – cobblestones, lanterns and tables set beneath the trees create a special feel that's hard to recreate indoors.
The same goes for a restaurant with a garden in the old town: when planning a night out, it's best to call ahead and check whether the garden or terrace is available that day and whether it needs a separate reservation.
For What Occasion
Taverns in Skadarlija are versatile when it comes to the occasions they're chosen for.
For a romantic dinner, dim lighting and live music create an atmosphere that's hard to find anywhere else in the city – hence the frequent search for a romantic restaurant in Belgrade's old town.
The same venues turn into a calmer spot during the day, perfect when you're looking for a restaurant for a business lunch in the old town.
In the evening, with a bigger table and guests celebrating, it's easy to arrange a restaurant for a celebration in Skadarlija – a birthday, anniversary or family gathering with tamburitza music.
What to Look for When Choosing a Restaurant in the Old Town
When choosing the best restaurants in the old town for your occasion, a few practical steps will save you time and hassle on the spot:
Book ahead – especially on Fridays, Saturdays and during tourist season, when Skadarlija tends to get full.
Check the working hours – most taverns are open both during the day and in the evening, but the program, especially the music, often varies by time of day.
Ask about the music program – if hearing tamburitza players matters to you, check whether they're playing that exact day and at what time.
Note the dress code for evening outings – some taverns have a smarter dress code and an age limit for the evening program, so it's good to check ahead if you're planning a night out.
For parking, delivery or card payment – this information is rarely listed on restaurant websites, so it's safest to simply call the restaurant and check directly.
Zlatni Bokal – A Tavern with Tradition Since 1968 in the Heart of Skadarlija
One of the choices in this part of town is Zlatni Bokal, a restaurant with a tradition dating back to 1968 in Skadarlija,, located at Skadarska 26. The space where the restaurant stands today was, back in the nineteenth century, a wine cellar visited by artists, writers and bohemians of that era – a piece of history still felt in the interior and atmosphere today.
Traditional Serbian cuisine and grilled specialties dominate the menu – Ćevapi "Zlatni Bokal", Biftek "Zlatni Bokal", Skadarlija gourmet pljeskavica, appetizers and Meze "Zlatni Bokal", Karađorđe's Schnitzel, chicken Zlatibor style, as well as fish dishes like grilled sea bass and salmon fillets, down to desserts like trileće, ice cube cake and choco tricolor cake. For details and the full offer, see the complete Zlatni Bokal menu.
Zlatni Bokal also hosts celebrations for up to 60 guests – birthdays, anniversaries, christenings, weddings, jubilees and business lunches, with tamburitza music as part of the atmosphere. If you're planning a celebration in this part of town, celebrate a birthday or wedding in the heart of the old town.
Frequently Asked Questions About Restaurants in Skadarlija and the Old Town
Should you book a table in Skadarlija in advance?
Generally yes, especially on weekends and during the season, when the area gets busier. For Zlatni Bokal you can make a reservation by calling +381 60 1111 992 or emailing office@zlatnibokal.com.
Which restaurants in Skadarlija have live music (tamburitza players)?
Tamburitza players are a characteristic feature of taverns in this part of town, so a restaurant with tamburitza players in Skadarlija isn't hard to find. At Zlatni Bokal, for example, daytime tamburitza players perform Wednesday through Sunday from 2pm to 8pm, and evening tamburitza players every night from 8pm to 2am.
What food should you try in Skadarlija?
Taverns in this area mostly keep to traditional Serbian cuisine and grilled specialties. At Zlatni Bokal, standouts include ćevapi, biftek, Skadarlija gourmet pljeskavica and Karađorđe's Schnitzel, as well as fish dishes for those looking for a lighter option.
Do restaurants in the old town have a garden or terrace?
Many taverns in Skadarlija have outdoor seating when the weather allows, which is one of the reasons this part of town is so popular in the warmer months. For exact information about a specific restaurant's garden or terrace, including Zlatni Bokal, it's best to check by phone before arriving.
How do you get to the restaurant on Skadarska Street, and is there parking?
Zlatni Bokal is located at Skadarska 26, in the heart of Skadarlija. For questions like parking, delivery or card payment, it's safest to call the restaurant ahead and check directly.
Time for Dinner in Skadarlija
Stari Grad, with Skadarlija at its heart, remains a place where dinner easily turns into a memory – with cobblestones underfoot, lanterns overhead and tamburitza players accompanying the conversation late into the night. If you're looking for somewhere to spend the evening, celebrate a special date, or simply sit down to a good lunch in the heart of the city, book a table on Skadarska Street and see for yourself the spirit that Zlatni Bokal has nurtured since 1968.
